As for tire repair, I didn’t flat during the course of my testing (I rarely do), but speaking of knurling, I think it was wise to leave the body of the tire plug with some traction, which makes it easier to grasp its skinny arm. When stuck wrenching on a bike trailside in the rain, the last thing you want is for the tool to be slipping in your hands and this was never an issue. One thing I appreciated with the M13 was the knurling on the sides. The rest of the tools however all saw plenty of action. The same goes with the T10 – unless you need to open a master cylinder on a brake and reset dragging pads, it won’t see much use. Anyhow, I rarely find myself using screwdrivers trailside, but occasionally they can be handy. Interestingly ours came in 9 grams lighter than claimed though. With that in mind, this tool does run a hair on the heavy side if you’re a gram counter. Over the years I’ve bent many a multi-tool loosening stubborn hardware and removing pedals, but never have I so much as thrown off my M13 or my M19. Additionally, the tool’s body is very sturdy and rigid. They wear extremely well and can handle some serious abuse.
In any case – and this goes for all of the M-series tools – I love that the tool bits are high tensile steel. The M20 essentially combines the best of the M13 and the M19. In doing so, it forgoes a chain tool, 8mm and 10mm hex bits and spoke wrenches. Compared to the M19 – my all time favorite multi tool – which is practically a toolbox in your palm, it focuses more on tire repair with the tire plug tool and its storage section. The M13 has a good spread of tools for most of your trailside repairs. Like most multi tools it can be cinched back up with the allen hardware on the hinges. Over time as you open and close the bits inside the tool it inevitably will loosen. If you go that route, the M13 is extra low profile as you can see above. You don’t have to use the storage section – in fact you could leave your plugs and a spare link elsewhere. Good everyday tool but longer 8mm key would steal a march over competitor designs.The tool, and all 13 of its features up close and personal, sans storage. Forgivable on the M17 but there was ample room to make the bit an inch or so longer without fouling the design or placing disproportionate stress upon the tool. Having nipped the saddle, cleats, mudguard and carrier bolts snug, persuading the drive side crank bolt home was frustratingly slow. My major frustration (which isn't confined to the M10) arose when diagnosing a phantom squeak, driving me close to distraction on a midnight meander. Unlike cheaper offerings, there's no hint of whip under pressure, neither have we come close to rounding fasteners. Fitting beautifully in the palm, its narrower profile is more convenient in tight corners, knurled bars preventing slippage at the crucial point when tightening twin bolt saddle clamps, weathered carrier fixings. Saving a mere 13 g over its bigger sibling, we've the usual suspects-1, 2,3,4,5,6 and 8mm Allen keys, torx wrench for discs and two sensibly sized Philips and flat screwdrivers-a comprehensive skeleton crew for road or hybrids all made from the same hardened, high tensile steel (although curiously, our test samples had some deep scratches in the curves). Complete with the same CNC machined, gold anodised aluminium sidebars and lifetime warranty, on many levels there's little to dislike, although a longer 8mm Allen key would've been more appropriate rather than simply scaling down the one on the M17. It's a delight to use and offers plenty of torque for those more awkward fixings. Crank Brothers M10 is equipped to address most roadside fettling without the weight or encumbrance of chain-tool, spoke keys or wrenches.
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